First, hi everyone and welcome to new readers!  I’ve actually been piecing…set-in circles no less!   Above is the 74″ square top.  Each block will finish at 12 1/2 inches.  I used Latifah Safari’s 12″ Clammy to cut the circles, half circles and the corner quarter squares.  Her instructions have you cut the outside from a single piece of cloth, but in addition to wanting to mix up the colors I felt that used too much yardage.  I do have a nice stack of the background fabric “pumpkin seeds” from the leftovers to use in something, though!    Need a title…not Crop Circles! Going in Circles?  Nah… maybe Hither and Yon? My newsletters readers have come up with a few really good ideas… I’m narrowing in on a title but Help me here! Suggestions welcome! And if you’d like to get my newsletter, look in the menu bar on the right of the blog page (or at the bottom of any other page on this site) to sign up.  If you live outside the US or prefer privacy, when it asks for a zip code just type in 12345 as a place holder–it works.

#latfahsaafir ‘s clammy and some grip tape made cutting the circles easy peasy!

I love many modern quilts because of the large scale of the blocks (for a graphic impact rather than ease of construction, though that is a bonus too), the room for quilting and/or the use of straight line quilting, the color and, frankly, for a change of pace.  I’ve also fallen for Latifah Saafir’s Clammy and Muffin Top quilts so I bought both the 8″ and 12″ templates.  What I didn’t realize is how incredibly versatile her templates are, allowing you to make clamshells, half circles, muffin tops (about a generous 1/3 of a circle), quarter circles, background pieces, pumpkin seeds (that elongated football shape you see in the top right, and all the really useful markings to cut on the fold, add seam allowances and what not. In going to collect the hotlink for you, I noticed she has bundles that save on cost and also some seconds that are less expensive.

You can see that I used highlighter tape to mark where I needed to cut for my background.  Her instructions have you cut a square, then cut from the square for the clamshell or circle.  That gave me more odd leftovers than I wanted, so I cut the circle from the edge of my fabric and then cut four corners so I could mix up the background as well as save on scraps.  Still, I’ve got a use for the leftovers….stay tuned (probably in a year LOL).

A longarmer recommended the Gator Grip tape to me; got it on Amazon to use for ruler-work machine quilting rulers, but it works for cutting rulers too.  I found that I wasn’t able to hold the template without making it slip sometimes, so I cut four small squares of the grip tape.  You can’t even hardly see it in this photo.  See the next one for a close up.  I LOVE THIS on the templates! You can still see the lines on the mat beneath the clear grip tape.  It works better than the sandpaper dots and other products I’ve tried, and a roll of this stuff will last forever.

The scissors are pointing to the 1/2″ square of grip tape on the under side of the ruler. You can even (slightly) see the markings on the cutting mat through the tape! Also notice the helpful makings on the ruler for various extra ways to use the template for cutting things other than a clamshell.

Cutting and Precision

Let me just say “perfectly precise” are two words that have never been used to describe my work.  But I am trying and learning.  An online master class in International Quilt Festival’s Virtual Festival  (it was in either December 2020 or 2021) with Philippa Naylor showed me I really COULD be precise if I tried. First, slow down.  Second, cut as carefully and precisely as you can.  If the pieces aren’t exact, then nothing else will be!

Pressing is also super important.  To avoid tucks when pressing seams to one side, use the tip (or toe if in the UK) of the iron, NOT the side of the iron. Astonishingly, it really is more precise at getting the entire fabric pushed away from the seam without an inadvertent little fold or tuck.  Sometimes, though, it is better to press seams open, and that takes a bit of learning when and how.  I’ve taken Philippa’s online Garment Makers’ Question Time workshop, and think in a year or so (if/when I get caught up on everything else) I may take her Quilters Question Time, even with as many years of quilting as I have–egads coming up on 33+ years!

It’s amazing how nice and a FLAT I got the blocks–precise cutting, careful sewing, smart ironing for the win!

Use the tip/toe of the iron to press seam allowance–here the allowance is under the green fabric.

• Stitched blocks front and back.  I used my alphabet and number pins to keep track of column and row.  I placed a pink pin (Taylor Seville’s Magic Pins…the pink are the LONG ones) in the top left background quarter to help me keep track of placement.  The letter/number pins are pinned vertically with the flower toward the top of the block, also to help me remember which way is up. Pressing:  the background sections are pressed open.  The stripe inserts are pressed under the strip.  The background goes under the circle.

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  Front and back of the blocks. Although the cross-cut on the circles creates thicker bumps, I opted to press under the circle to “raise” it above the background. Here you can see the top and the under side of two blocks.

• I used a Sharpie to mark A,B,C etc. on some flower head pins, and 1-12 on even more.  Each row is A, B, C etc., then each block going across is 1, 2, 3 etc.

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  My DIY numbered pins help me keep track of what goes where–and a photo on the phone is a MUST!

•   Fold the circle in half exactly and press a crease on the edges.  Open it back up.

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  Fold circle in half. I am careful to align the strip so it folds directly on top of itself.

• Turn the circle 90 degrees, fold in half the other way aligning the first pair of crease marks, then iron in the second set of creases at the fold.  At first I just quartered the circle and pressed, but I got more accurate alignment after I tried marking the spots in two steps.

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  align the creases you made (above), bringing the top all the way down–it’s offset here to show you the crease marks on both edges.

• I pinned the background (sewn into a circle) to the center circle on the creases at the top, bottom and sides. In other words, the concave (innie) curve goes on top of the convex (outie) curve.  As I stitched I added a pin about  1 1/2″ before each of those pins–the fabric doesn’t ease in as well where the grain is closer to on-grain.  In the rest of the quarter circle arc, I use my fingers to ease in and hold the background in place.Being as accurate as you can at all steps helps!

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  This is a do what works best for you thing. I find that just a couple pins and using my fingers works better and more accurately (along with sewing reasonably slowly) than using a thousand pins.

In the studio I love my Zirkle magnetic pin minder, but this Clover magnetic pin “cushion” with a lid (that fits on the bottom when you don’t need the pins covered) is perfect for retreats and travel.

You can never have too many pins. For hand appliqué, you want them short so the thread doesn’t tangle. For machine piecing, I prefer really LONG so the head of the pin doesn’t get caught under the foot. ALWAYS pull the pin out before it reaches the needle–sometimes that maybe when it is one stitch away, but don’t sew over it. If you hit the pin you can knock the machine out of timing (expensive repair!).

My sets of homemade ABC and 123 pins are on the bottom, along with some of my Taylor Seville pins.  Taylor Seville reached out to me when I was teaching at a couple shows in the past year or so, and sent me some to try (I hadn’t used them before but now I do!) and more to share as classroom giveaways.  The pins come in different lengths and thicknesses.  The mint green ones are the shortest of the ones I have, the blue are a finer metal (makes pinning seam allowances open flatter and therefore sew up more accurately, but they bend more easily so choose your usages wisely), the pink are longer.  I prefer the longer as the grippy ends don’t get snugged under the presser foot.  Best of all, Taylor Seville is coming out with a BOX of ABC 123 pins with SLOTS for each one… no more pinning into cloth or having a muddled mess of pins….. I always figured why spend the $$$ when I could make my own cheaper, but that organizing box is Da Bomb!  Will be ordering as soon as they are available!  I saw maybe September 2023 for them…..

PERFECT intersections!  

Pinning is the key, with a big helping hand from seams pressed OPEN:

• first, put one pin through the Very Center of the seam of the pieces on the top,
• then poke that pin through the seam of the pieces on the bottom.

LEAVE the pin in the seam vertically–don’t bend it sideways or “pin the seam.”

• Place two more pins in the seam allowances on both sides of the seam.

The pin through the seam stays poking up!

• Slide the fabric under the presser foot and try to keep the vertical pin in place.

In the photos, below, you see that at a certain point you need to let the vertical pin pivot out of the way.  The photo on the right shows me holding the pin still IN the seam to keep it aligned until the very last moment.

Sew SLOWLY when you approach all those pins. The finer the pins (in this image I’m using glass-headed pins that have a thicker shaft -metal part). The thinner the shaft, the more flat the fabric remains and the easier it is to get a perfect match. The drawback to finer pins is they bend more easily. Do what works for you. For me, I’ll sacrifice a few pins (and use them bent for a long while too) to get flat and perfect and not have to rip out and re-do.

I counted up on the horizontal seams that joined the rows (see top photo) and counted about 50 intersections.  I only had to “fine tune” (i.e. fix) three, and even before fixing the perfect match was off by only a thread of two!  Since I am nowhere near a perfect or precision sewer, that is nearly a miracle!  I mean look at the next photo…SWOON!
Since I wrote my newsletter, I got the backing made from leftovers (hooray…about 2″ of stash used up…sigh…..).

I LOVE my long closet. When we moved in in 2011, this room was awful and unfinished. I had a carpenter make me sliding design-wall doors and I love them. They hide clutter (teaching stuff, storage for mixed media, paper, ribbons, etc., and all my quilts, rolled). Use the search box at right and enter “state of the studio” to see the transformation pictures.

And because we all need cute AND perfect intersections in our lives, I’ll close with Percy, who hopped up on the top the instant it was done to approve of the design!

#thetalesofpercivalwulfric

Precision piecing has never been my strong suit, but I am — like Michaelangelo at age 80 — still learning. One of the things I’ve learned is that it is OK to use specialty tools like the AccuQuiltGO! and byAnnie’s stiletto. Thank you to Michael Miller, for whom I am a Brand Ambassador this year) and Janome America for having me as an Artisan. For me, careful cutting for squares, rectangles and triangles isn’t too TOO challenging (as long as I’m paying attention which is never to be take for granted LOL). But CURVES? Not so much.

Back in May, I shared a video that tells yo about the amazing (Heavenly Perfection?) HP presser foot and throat plate, herhttps://www.sarahannsmith.com/weblog/?p=13206e. If you have a Janome with this option and haven’t tried it out, DO! Go watch the video… it’s a brief but I hope helpful mini tutorial. The video is also on my YouTube channel, here. I’ve been doing a bit more with brief videos…looks like about one a month. I’ll have another later this month about using the blind hem stitch for some slacks I made–you can subscribe to the channel.

Here’s a quick video of me using the oh-so-wonderful HP accufeed foot and throat plate from Janome, on my M7. Thanks to Kimberly Einmo who shared her love of this accessory at the 2018 Janome Education Summit! Like I said…there is ALWAYS more to enjoy learning.

The stiletto from byAnnie.com is here.

Hope you’ve enjoyed my detour from art quilting. I’ve actually needed a break to recharge myself, and this has been DELIGHTFUL. I’m thrilled with the finished quilt… will post it in about a week or so.

Full disclosure: I’ve been a Janome Artisan for 16 years, and am forever grateful for their support and machines. I’m a Michael Miller Fabrics (MMF) Brand Ambassador for 2020; the batiks and white fabric were donated as part of that ambassadorship. The AccuQuiltGO! was a GIFT (!!!!) as part of the MMF thing, and I purchased the Winding Ways die once I realized that wow, I could USE this machine! Whooda thunk it? Well, I should have. Having FUN! And lastly, thanks to byAnnie.com; their donations to the Teacher Goodie Bags in Houston one year netted me that awesome (and not expensive) Stiletto!

Over the past week to two weeks, I have been working on ….sit down and prepare yourselves for this… a **pieced** quilt. Yes, me. A very simple pieced quilt, but nonetheless.

I’ve also been experimenting with the AccuQuiltGO! that was given to this year’s crop of Michael Miller Fabrics Brand Ambassadors. To my distress my block was not perfect–too small! I KNEW it had to be something on my end (it was), so I triple checked my seams (perfect to scant). I checked the size of the fabric cut on the dies: perfect. I checked that I used the correct dies: I did. Then I noticed something. After ironing, the block seemed off. Look at what I discovered:

First I placed my half square triangles on the dies, and look how much smaller the pieces are after sewing and ironing! So then I checked the start of the square-in-a-square center of the block. Same thing: after steam ironing/pressing, a unit that finishes at 2″ and one that finishes at 3 1/4″ are each 1/16-1/8″ smaller!

I decided to get a bit more scientific about it: Cut, measure, dry iron, measure, steam iron, measure. Here is what happened with the Cotton Couture, a delightful solid with a glorious feel in the hand:

Batiks are made using hand-dyeing processes that include a resist being applied (usually wax of some sort), then the wax is washed out, more dye applied, and so on. This means some of the shrinkage should already have happened.

So my lesson is, when I am not fusing things up, I really need to either pre-steam-iron everything, or prewash and mostly-dry it and then iron dry and smooth. I can now use the perfection of the AccuquiltGO and actually achieve as close to perfect as I will ever get! Now, off to order backing fabric for my BIG quilt.

Better. I finally got a little time in the studio (and the hammering on the roof is more muffled down there–we are having a new, metal roof put on–who knew they could do that in Maine in January?). I had thought the Rosehip top was done when I left it on Sunday evening but, I’m learning I need to let things set a spell, after I looked at it with fresh eyes realized it needed some help. I made a small rose hip quilt (below), and when I saw it next to the big one, I realized the large one looked a bit dead.

Off and on for the past couple of weeks I have been dyeing fabric, drawing or photoshopping images to make thermofax screens, and finally working on collaging the background for the rose hip, the large (36″ square) version. To those of you have landed here from my new newsletter, thank you! To those of you who don’t know about my new newsletter, please go here to the home page and sign up! I will write about mid-month and will never share your info!

So that’s about it for now….thanks for surfing in, share the post, and let others know about the newsletter. I’d love to ramp up my teaching again, and the best way to do that is by showing my work and getting the word out there. Now, off to make cookies for the guys roofing the house in freezing weather, then down to the studio.